Like this
Everyplace I've found them is an industrial place that either wants $300 for it or you have to request a quote. It doesn't seam that difficult. I need a 220v kill switch with a big red button.
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| Where can I but an emergency kill switch? http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=4332 |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Mon Jan 02, 2006 11:24 am ] |
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Like this
Everyplace I've found them is an industrial place that either wants $300 for it or you have to request a quote. It doesn't seam that difficult. I need a 220v kill switch with a big red button. |
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| Author: | PaulB [ Mon Jan 02, 2006 12:07 pm ] |
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You might try your local scrap yard. I worked at a scrap yard years ago and we used to get guys coming to buy this sort of thing for a few dollars. Lots of old machinery used to come in to be scrapped all with good switches and motors that we'd sell for pennys. |
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| Author: | ctholden [ Mon Jan 02, 2006 1:13 pm ] |
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Hey Paul, Try the MSC catalog at this website They may have what you are looking for. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?SISHNO=696046&SISRCH=1 &SIS0NO=172088&SIT4NO=3627779 Craig |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Mon Jan 02, 2006 1:42 pm ] |
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Thanks Craig, I searched there, Grainger, and McMaster Carr and didn't have any results. You must have known the right combination of words to use. Thanks again. paul |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:38 am ] |
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Might I ask what you are trying to kill here ??? I take it you are wiring this into an existing circuit, one with a mag lock relay switch on it ??? The typical kill switch is usually a simple momentary type contact that breaks the locking circuit on a magnetic set of contacts (relay), although some have the knob part of the switch lock into place until you pull it back out. It may or may not be running on 220V. The ones I make up from scrap yard parts are always 110 or 220 control circuits - saves you trying to get a 24v line just to run the relay. I added a large 6x8 inch paddle of wood hinged from the top onto the switch of my unisaw - drilled a hole thru it to get to the start button, and there is a dowel on the inside of the paddle that just rests on the small stop button. So when at the saw, I can knock the paddle with a knee to stop the saw without moving my hands from the workpiece. |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:42 am ] |
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Tony, this is for my General dual drum sander. The way I have it is with the existing switch on the side against the wall. The adjustment wheel is on the other end which is where I stand. I put the wood in with my right hand and receive it with my left. That saves me having to walk around the machine for each pass. The disadvantage is that the stop switch is out of reach should something go wrong. I just want to put one on the side of the unit where I stand. |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Tue Jan 03, 2006 3:48 am ] |
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OK .. so I am assuming then that its a mag lock type switch, not a toggle. What you need to find out is what the rating of the stop button needs to be. Most likely its 110 or 220. it needs to be a normally closed switch, as the circuit which keeps the magnetic lock working will run thru this, hence the rating - then when you hit the switch, it breaks the mag lock circuit, the contacts on the relay open and the machine turns off. When you wire it in, you will need to break the control circuit, and wire the new switch into the path in series (handy because you will only need to use one piece of 3 conductor wire of the right rating, a send, return and grd). Then either off button (or as many as you wire in) will control the machine. |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Tue Jan 03, 2006 3:51 am ] |
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Yep, looks like the first switch in the MSC post up above will work fine. |
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| Author: | Terry Stowell [ Tue Jan 03, 2006 9:30 am ] |
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Paul, can you just move the original switch? |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Tue Jan 03, 2006 9:36 am ] |
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Tried that. It's on a big panel thing that won't fit anywhere else. |
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| Author: | Terry Stowell [ Tue Jan 03, 2006 9:47 am ] |
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I figured you did... I saw somewhere someone made a panic bar for their table saw's existing switch, located underneath. Be cool if you could rig a foot operated deal, either mechanically attached to existing switch or electrical. In non-dangerous situation, I make use of my family members 
Well anyhow bro, let us know what works, It's got me thinking about mine, similar situation |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Wed Jan 04, 2006 2:14 am ] |
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Hi Paul, Here is the add on i did to my Unisaw switch. I was thinking that it would be easy to be able to activate it from the other side (not necessary on a table saw, but more in your situation) either using a piece of rope/heavy twine that hangs over ot the other side, or a wooden lever setup - all that needs to be done is to move the paddle slightly in and it shuts off - you cant see in the photo, but there is a dowel right over the red off button so that moving the paddle in pushes that button - the upper hole allows access to the start button. 
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